The city of Beaune, the center of the wine trade in the Côte D'Or, possesses a magnificent building that has survived from the middle ages virtually intact. This building is the Hôtel-Dieu, the hospital for the poor. As you approach it you are struck by the multi-colored, geometrically patterned tile roof. This type of roof is a hallmark of the Flemish-Burgundian architecture of the middle ages, and is seen quite often in this part of Bourgogne. Attracted by the colorful tiles and the medieval architecture, you enter the building, which is now a museum.

What you will find in this ancient hospital is a treasure trove of historical artifacts and artwork. Built by Nicolas Rolin and his wife Guignone de Salins to help the poor of Beaune after the devastation and pestilence that followed the Hundred Years War, it is a glimpse back in time to a way of treating patients that no longer exists. As you enter the museum, the first room that you encounter is the Great Hall of the Poor. The beds that the patients slept in are still here. They line both of the longest walls, head to toe, and are striking with their crimson curtains and bedcovers. A small shelf is found at the foot of each bed, where the patient kept his personal belongings. Although no they no longer exist, tables and benches were placed in the middle of this huge room for the patients to take their meals. The concept of a private room was non-existent.

Moving on to the chapel, you see a magnificent stained glass window, and many beautiful objets d'art. Two other rooms of historical note are the restored kitchen, which still contains the original double hearth fireplace from the middle ages, and the pharmacy, which recreates the medical knowledge of the time, displaying containers of remedies made from local plants, animals and minerals. As you progress through the different rooms of the Hôtel-Dieu the artwork becomes more precious and more beautiful. First, an amazing collection of Brussels tapestries from the 16th century depicting biblical scenes, and a 17th century Aubusson tapestry. Finally, the crown jewel of the collection - a magnificent polyptich commissioned by Nicolas Rolin and painted by the Flemish artist Rogier van der Weyden. This extraordinary piece, depicting the Last Judgment, hung at one time in the chapel, but is now kept in a separate room. It is a masterpiece of 15th century art, with a center panel depicting Christ as the final judge, and side panels showing the damned making their descent into hell, and the blessed ascending to heaven.

After this heady dose of the middle ages, you find yourself in a well stocked gift shop with enumerable items to buy as a keepsake of your visit. The museum is open every day, all year long, and is located at 2, rue de l'Hôtel-Dieu. It might be a good idea to phone ahead for hours and the current entry fee. The phone number is 03 80 24 45 00. For a look at the Flemish-Burgundian Gothic architectural style, and for a glimpse into the dim past of medical care, a visit to the Hôtel-Dieu is a most rewarding experience. And it is well worth a visit to see the van der Weyden polyptych if you are interested in medieval art.